Hong Kong – Layover #1

Hong Kong , easy and pricy. An enclave of Chinese culture without the authoritarian grasp of the CCP. An interesting mix of West and East , formed from thousands of years of mainland Chinese history and founded/ruled as a colony of the British empire. To me , Hong Kong is the very definition of urban. Hong Kong is one of the world’s most densely populated places with 7,103,700 people packed into 425 square miles. These numbers are a little tricky though as only about 25% of that land is developed with the rest being hilly green areas and country parks. This means all those people are actually crammed in a much smaller space! The result? Towering apartment blocks stretching into the sky with only very tiny alleyways separating the massive concrete structures, residential spaces above with , convenient stores , restaurants , shopping, below. A true concrete jungle.

We started out how most people start their trips to Hong Kong , the super easy , convenient , and comparatively (to Shanghai) expensive airport train. 24 minutes from the airport to the city in a comfy train. Nice compared to Hanoi where the methods of transport are all almost solely cut-throat taxi drivers looking to rip you off.

We didn’t have much money to spend on our trip so we opted for Hong Kong’s cheapest guesthouses in the infamous Chungking Mansions. The Mansions are a 17 story world microcosm. They are infamous for illegal immigrants , sex workers, and drugs. It’s also a backpacker hotspot for those looking to save money with 90 guesthouses and more than 1,000 beds. It’s also a place I wouldn’t want to be if a fire broke out. Not enough elevators and a confusing layout of stairwells with dead-ends make it a deathtrap. In addition it’s a place where low-scale globalization trade occurs with many hard-working honest traders from all over Asia, the Middle-East, and Africa carrying goods over in suitcases looking to make a sale. Estimates claim that nearly 20% of cell phones in Sub-Saharan Africa pass through the ChungKing Mansions.

Standing in line for the elevator (it took like half a hour) , I certainly didn’t feel like I was in Hong Kong. I waited in line hearing African French , seeing dudes with long black beards and turbans stroll by , and smelling Indian curries. I was accosted by guys with Bollywood accents trying to get me to stay in their guesthouses. I was comforted by fellow backpackers also sweating , looking lost , and trying to find their way in this maze.

I couldn’t complain about the guesthouse. The manager was really friendly and I guess $50 for a closet with an adjoining toilet/shower closet is a good deal for space strapped Hong Kong. ( $25 would get me a really nice spacious hotel with free breakfast in Hanoi and $3 dollars got me a bigger room in rural Sagada, Philippines). If you want to save some cash in Hk don’t be scared of the Chungking Mansions and go stay at the Apple Hostel!

Chungking Mansions

Waiting in Line in Chungking Mansions

We got checked in, and dropped all our stuff off pretty late ,but we went on a night stroll down to the Star Ferry terminal. It was too late to see the famous skyline all lit up but it was still cool. We got to watch some fisherman hook a huge fish and see the fish drop on a lady’s back who was trying to pose with it. Stopping in at the convenient store on the way back, we were shocked at how much more expensive everything was.

Late night skyline view.

Water = 2x to 3x the price of Shanghai.
Instant Noodles = 3x the price
Beer = 50% more.
The sticker shock would only continue the next day.

With a limited time-frame we were checked out by 6:00 am and on the road. First things first, we took the ferry over to Hong Kong island , totally oblivious to the fact that the day before had seen a ferry sinking with 30 some deaths. Fortunately our trip was smoother, we had wondered why there were so few people on board. Arriving in Central we hopped one of the double-decker buses and went up to Victoria Peak , the classic view of Hong Kong from up high. I was a bit taken aback at the price (9.50 HKD is about 2-3 times the price I would pay in Shanghai for a similar distance on a bus). It was worth the $1.22 USD though for the windy trip up through the mountainous HK terrain. Upon reaching the top we took in the cool air and the great views. It was a bit foggy/smoggy but still insanely impressive. We hopped on one of the famous cable cars to go down and we were glad we choose the bus to go up. The lines for the ride up the mountain via tram were very , very long.

Bus ride up to the peak.

View from the peak.

Cable Car line to the peak.

After the tram ride we were down in the heart of things and took a long walk down Queen’s Road. We were in awe all how tall and how closely packed Hong Kong is . Apartment buildings soared overheard with only tiny alleys separating them. It felt like the most city like environment I had ever been in. While I loved it , it made me realize how nice Shanghai’s tree-lined former French Concession really is.

City

City.

We had fun walking through Central and saw some great examples of the whole East meets West thing. Shops selling deer antlers (with skull!) and deer fetuses peacefully existed with pizza places and fine Dutch cheeses. Constipated cats guarded dry seafood, old men in roast duck restaurants spoke great English , ladies in chadors shopped for the newest fashions while business suited men drank beer on plastic seats at plastic tables on the street. From somewhere incense wafted out into the air. What a place!

Deer Fetuses. You thought I was kidding.

After all those deer fetuses , it certainly does call for a Carlsberg.

Soooo tall!

After wandering around and getting tired we decided to take the subway over to Causeway Bay. This area is known for its massive shopping malls , and well more shopping malls. We just wanted to relax (and I needed to find a good place to poop , me being somewhat wary from Shanghai’s bathrooms.)

After taking a breather and dropping off some of my burdens , it was time to head back over to Kowloon side to grab our things and head off to the airport.

We had enough time to get off at Jordan Station and walk down HK’s “Golden Mile” Nathan Street. We stopped in at Tsim Tsa Tsui park and all of a sudden I was hearing Tagalog and seeing dark skin everywhere. Wha? Manila? Where I am? I had strolled into the park and right into the midst of a Filipina domestic maid party. Everyone was Filipino. Brought back some good memories of my month in the Philippines.

Filipinos in the Park.

Awesome new and the old shot.

We hurried back to the hostel , grabbed our things , and hit the airport express. Next stop Hanoi!

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6 thoughts on “Hong Kong – Layover #1

  1. I’ve just started reading a book about the Chungking Mansions: “The Ghetto at the Center of the World.” Really interesting stuff. Glad you checked the Chungking Mansions out in person. It’s on my list of things to do.

    And, as for the prices, I’ve simply forced myself to stop mentally converting back to USD (or comparing to China). Almost every scrap of food is imported from somewhere else and it is all expensive.

    • I read an online CNNgo article where the reporters went into the Mansions with the guy who wrote that book to get some of my facts. I would love to get my hands on the book.

      Ah stupid me. I didn’t even think of that. Of course most of the food would be imported.

      Good tip for the prices. When traveling I can’t help but compare back to my two homes. After moving to a place though I quit mentally converting everything possible thing.

  2. Great post. One of the more spectacular views when landing by air. Didn’t spend much time there, but it has some kind of energy. Love the tram and view at night – hate the bloody, unnecessary pushing to get on 😉 That’s when you know you’re sort of in China.

    • Luckily I get to go back in November and stay for a few days thanks to my Uncle. I love the energy and the pure built-up urbaness of it all. Hahaha the lines and pushing are why I skipped it on the way up , plus the bus has some amazing views as well.

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